The Overview and Relevant links
First stop is Ho Chi Minh City, then on to the Con Dao resort on a small island at the south end of Vietnam....http://www.sixsenses.com/resorts/con-dao/destination
Then I'm on a river boat called the Jayayarman, cruising the Mekong River ...
http://www.heritage-line.com/en/journey/mekong/programs/the-lost-civilization/upstream-water/
April 7, 2014 - Last Day
Today I headed to the countryside where I was met by two large, freshly-washed oxen and a
cart. The owner of a local farm gave us an adventure the old-fashioned
way. This is an entrepreneurial farmer who owns pigs and oxen, grows rice, then bakes sticky
rice for sale. Additionally, he gives aging tourists rides in his
ox cart!
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They had lots of ants to fry up as treats.
Back on the road, we passed by a small variety store where a mum and her children were making decorations for the New Year. The young boy you see above suggested that I buy one, so I did, for my driver and guide. Everyone was happy!
Next, we drove to a lake where locals come to picnic and swim.
We took a ride on a boat with a noisy motor, but it was fun.
We ended the day at a farm that the travel agent has an arrangement with and dined on a feast of very fresh and well-prepared food.
Geese on their way home.
The local catch.
Today's adventure was one that few tourists get to experience and it was great. It was wonderful to be able to see so many people making baskets, husking corn, etc.
FYI: Our local agent was called 'About Asia Travel'. Here's a link to their website. http://www.aboutasiatravel.com/?gclid=CNbehKCrz70CFYhaMgodWS0AjA
Raffles - Old world Charm
Since departing the river boat, I've been staying at the Raffles Hotel in Siem Riep. http://www.raffles.com/siem-reap/ It has lots of old world charm,
including an old fashion lift.
The hotel runs lots of programs for patrons. Tonight the in-house florist taught us about the Lotus flower. I've decided it's my favourite flower of all time!
They are used in Buddhist celebration as an offering for good luck, health and
prosperity.
Once the petals fall off, the centre forms a tasty fruit in about 3 months. You peel it open to find the fruit, which looks like a 'pearl'.
They are also tasty when dried and can be used in cooking.
The stalk can be used to make fabric for T-shirts, though the cost of a garment is prohibitive. They get shipped to Hong Kong and sold for a thousand dollars or more!
The leaves can be used for packaging food - the locals say it's better than plastic
bags and it's certainly 'green'.
Angkor and Angkor Wat - UNESCO Heritage Site
Angkor, in Cambodia’s northern province of Siem Reap, is
one of the most important archaeological sites of Southeast Asia. It extends
over approximately 400 square kilometres and consists of scores of temples,
hydraulic structures (basins, dykes, reservoirs, canals) as well as
communication routes.
At 5:15 a.m., we were in a tuk tuk heading for Angkor Wat.
At 5:15 a.m., we were in a tuk tuk heading for Angkor Wat.
Angkor Wat is actually only one of many temples in Angkor, but is the best known perhaps. Here is a link to more information. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/668
We headed in the "back door" of the temple as daylight broke. Everything was wonderfully still as we entered.
The buildings were particularly lovely in the early light.
We returned to our tuk tuk where cool clothes and breakfast awaited. Then headed off to
the next site, Ta Prohm. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ta_Prohm
This site was made famous by Angelie Jolie in the movie 'Tomb Raider'. It is particularly exciting because of the number of giant tree roots that encompass it.
Our last temple tour of the day was Ankgor Thom. Here's a link to more information. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayon The thing that stands out at this site are the over-200 happy smiling faces situated above every entrance and temple. What each face represents depends on its direction.
Apparently, the four divine face states are: North - impartiality; South - charity; East - compassion;
West -sympathy.
There is a carved stone wall with depictions of early life: the market, cooking, wild boar fighting, farming, etc.
Our exit is where we find hordes of tourists entering...
Having toured 3 sites in the morning, I got the afternoon off to spend at Raffles Hotel pool.
Last Night on the Boat
Last night party...dancing on the upper deck and a wonderful meal.
Michele & Geoffrey
Our favourite waitress and chef pose with Karen and Don.
We learned local dances. Then went full out with the Macarena, a jive, a Congo line and a slow dance. It was great fun for all despite the heat and humidity (over 40 degrees C.). A huge storm rolled in later in the evening.
April 4, 2014 - Monkeys, Monks and Hilltops
This morning we toured a large Buddhist community. Below is a photo of the first cemetery we have seen. There were many gathering in the cemetery since this is the time of year when people traditionally visit their deceased family members.
Don and Karen make the steep climb to our destination.
Young monks just hangin' around.
This pre-Angkor Wat temple was constructed of bricks made from ground clams, fine sand, palm sugar, and teak oil.
Bomb damage has caused a crack in the wall.
A bomb casing hangs as a reminder of war. There are many areas that are unsafe to wander through as many active bombs remain in the ground.
In an attempt to have something playful for the children, large statues of fruits, vegetables and animals have been erected.
Adults have fun too!
Three-hundred and three steps back to the boat.
Last afternoon on the boat...our journey is coming to an end
It's hard to believe that a week has gone by and that this afternoon's tour was the last one.
This afternoon children from a local school (that is supported by the cruise line) came by to entertain with song and dance. It was amazing, very authentic and fun to watch.
We visited one last temple prior to Angkor Wat. And traversed a bamboo bridge!
This is built and destroyed annually. It's hard to believe it supports the weight of trucks. I wouldn't want to drive it but walking was just fine.
April 3, 2014 - Silk and Such
Today we headed off, in yet another form of motorized vehicle, to a silk factory. As we await our departure, we are greeted by several very pleasant woman on motor bikes stacked with packages; no doubt we’ll be met by them on our return.
This community has a cooperative silk factory in which all products are sent to a middle man who sends them to a number of places of sale, including back to the silk factory store. The natural colour of the silk is a lovely golden colour, unfortunately none for sale!
As the men wait.....
...the women shop.
As expected on our return we are greeted by cheaper prices and a good variety of products.
The island seems quite prosperous and lots of crops are grown; among them, taro, ginger, corn, and tomatoes. We even spotted a tractor.
There are still spot many field labourers, in this case, working under umbrellas.
Back on the boat, we’re treated to a fashion show demonstrating how to wear local clothes.
The krama is the traditional checkered headdress of Cambodia.
In the afternoon...
Our afternoon adventure took us to a small town of Angkor Ban, where we walked
the tree-lined paths. Homes were attractive, with livestock such as Brahma bulls housed below.
Vehicle ownership suggests this town is more prosperous town than some we have seen.
The corn harvest kept everyone busy.
We were invited to participate in a house warming.
Lots of busy streets.
We ended this afternoon's tour at the English school where the children practiced their English with us, then sang "If you're happy and you know it".
The cost for these children to attend this private school is 12 cents per week.
I left some gifts for the teacher to distribute to the children.
Modern monks in the making...at work and on cell phones (below).
April 2nd, 2014
Last night we had a barbecue on the upper deck along with some local entertainment.
The dancers who entertained us in traditional dress were far more graceful than I could ever be.
Today's adventures.....
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We visited a market where items of silver were made . Young entrepreneurs were anxious to sell us their wares and to practice their English.
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I wonder how many of us bought real silver!!!
We stopped by the primary school where the kids sang the national anthem - but
were warned not to "High Five" the children as sanitation levels generally aren't what
we're used to.
And later in the day.....
It's warm as we head up the Tonle Sap river which is quite narrow. Children run to greet us and wave. We end in Andaung Russey Village where
they make terra cotta pots and harvest sugar palm trees.
The
town's folk are very worried as the mountain that the clay if taken from has been sold to China for purposes of gold exploration. Their access to the clay may end and since the entire town
is involved in the production of terra cotta projects, this would seriously hinder their work.
The young woman who is demonstrating pot-making earns 12 cents a pot or about $4.00/hour. She does an amazing job by hand as the wheel sits idle beside her.
She replicates an ancient terra cotta pot and they sell these reproductions in the Russian market .
Next we watched how sugar is extracted from the sugar palm tree. They don't tap these trees for sugar but cut open the end of the "flower" which drips into containers.
Access to the top of the tree is precarious. It's even more precarious to travel from tree to tree from the top branches!
Here we have the director of operations from the cruise line Miguel having great fun with some local children.
In the photo above is an amazing new product. They make a small cooking stove
complete with insulation, air flow, fueled by either wood or charcoal. It is
much safer than what is currently in common use. These are sold for $4, but a mere 5 km away they sell for $30. Wouldn't you like to be the
middle man?
Life on the Jayayarman.....
Tai Chi on the upper deck.
Breakfast and lunch are buffet with a menu choice for dinner. There is always an
interesting 'fresh station' where something new is prepared as you
choose...tempura, spring rolls, pho, salads and more. Cooking classes are held here
as well.
Lectures and briefings are held in the lounge...it is also a wonderful relaxation
spot where we are met with refreshing towels, iced tea and air conditioning when
we return from our adventures.
Excursion boat.
And, of course the spa, where I spend much of my free time.
Our fellow river boat The Jahan. It is newer so has some upgrades but I
quite like our layout with the sun deck above the bar, as a relaxation area.
April 1st, 2014 - We're in Cambodia
We are now in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. It has a population of over 3 million people and represents quite a change from the fields and fish huts of Vietnam. Rather than take a day-long tour, I decided to hire a private guide and tuk tuk. My guide works at the national museum making $160 monthly so was happy to take a day off and act as a personal guide for $25.
We started the tour at the palace, which demonstrates how Buddhism, reflected in the colour yellow, and Hinduism, reflected in white, meet in harmony. In addition to the King’s residence, there are both a Hindu and a Buddhist temple within the complex. The King is merely a figurehead; the country is run by parliament, which is not necessarily democratically elected apparently.
Tradition required women to wear certain colours on certain days. This would definitely cramp my style.
The construction of a large high rise across from the palace is controversial given how it changes the landscape.
Beautiful water lilies surround the palace.
We saw a most interesting tree called the Shorea Robusta, which has great significance in Hinduism. Here’s a link to more information. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shorea_robusta.
Pregnant women brew the essence of the fallen flowers in a tea consumed in the hope of an easy birth.
Next we went to the national museum, which is filled with historical artifacts, especially from Angkor Wat. The red exterior of the museum is meant to represent fallen warriors. The museum has a beautiful, peaceful courtyard where you can forget the hustle and bustle of a large city.
We then drove through areas of town in which the slums of the impoverished were juxtaposed with the homes of the very rich.
Next we went to the Cambodian genocide museum, which held political prisoners, most of whom were murdered. The Cambodian Genocide was masterminded by the Khmer Rouge party leader “Pol Pot” to nationalize the peasant farming society of Cambodia virtually overnight, in accordance with the Chinese Communist agricultural model. Twenty-five percent of the country’s population was gone in just three short years.
This is the parliament building. The colours of the flag signify king (blue), country (red) and religion (white).
There are many new developments and lots of high rises. However, the old French buildings are protected by law. The most attractive building is the market built in 1937; built by the French and recently restored.
Though colourful, I generally, I found the city to be very dirty with large piles of garbage on the street and open sewers.
Mar 31st, 2014 - About to leave Vietnam and lots of very unfamiliar street food
This morning while cruising up the river we passed a small local floating market.
After docking at the last port in Vietnam, we headed to one of the many local fish farms that we
have seen along the way. They are essentially a floating platform, combining home and business.
We were met with a dreadful smell as we climbed aboard the floating fish farm. Nets are sunk around the platform in which young fish are cultivated. At the relatively large farm that we visited, 110,000 fish are raised, (both talapia and snapper), in a space that is 8 x 20 meters in area and 4 meters deep. The fish are fed a vegetarian diet of rice powder, tapioca, sweet potatoes and morning glories and become quite agitated when food is coming!
If the river current is deemed to be insufficiently strong for fish cultivation, a motor is used to produce a current. At the end of the growing season, farm workers enter the tank and scoop the fish into large baskets. They are then weighed and sent to market. Depending on the season, a farmer who cultivates 100,000 fish can make about $6,000. Should there be a fish shortage, he can charge more.
In this part of Vietnam, there are over 10,000 people living on boats. This photo shows the propeller protectors that keep the weeds out of the props.
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Paddling is an alternative to propeller driven boats.
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The 'new Vietnam' rises above the 'old'.
Homes aren't quite what we're used to. Space is at a premium and front entry ways often serve many purposes.
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| In the market, there were many items that I recognized, others I did not, and lots that I would prefer not to know much about at all. |
Lastly we travelled by cyclos (a.k.a. rickshaws) to tour the town. These are actually no longer used for
local travel and are reserved for tourists.
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Bikers drive their vehicles under the shade of a street café umbrella. |
Cooling hot feet.
Mar 29th and 30th, 2014 - Life on the Mekong River
I left Con Dao early Saturday morning to begin my Mekong River boat cruise aboard the
Jayayarman. I met up with my fellow travellers at a hotel in Ho Chi Minh City, where we boarded a bus that took us to the port. Not surprisingly, life on the river boat began with a 'welcoming drinks party' at which I met my fellow travellers who are Australian for the most part, as well as senior in age. I am the only Canadian in the group.
The first afternoon was spent settling into our rooms as the crew prepared to set sail. The boat's interior is accented in lovely old dark, wood. Beautiful antiques line the halls.
The top deck is 'half size' and contains a sun deck with a very tiny hot tub. This is a wonderful area of the boat to sit and watch the world go by. Apparently, early morning Tai Chi sessions are held in this area for those so inclined.
I shared some champagne with cabin mates as
a lovely breeze cooled us.
We watch boat after boat of sand
being hauled down the river - the river is being dredged for sand, destined for sale in Singapore, or used to reinforce the river banks. No permits are required to dredge the river, so anyone can do it as long as they have the equipment to do so.
The next floor has the bar and dining room. Dining is buffet-style for breakfast and lunch, with
menu choices for dinner. The bar is located
outside and has lovely big old chairs. I suspect it's going to be a popular meeting
spot.
One level down, there's a lounge, in which daily briefings take place and movies are played nightly. Half of the cabins are located on this level. The cabins have balconies on which to sit in privacy and simply enjoy the view.
We dropped anchor in the middle of the river for the evening; ships don't travel at
night so the river becomes very peaceful.
Life on the River Begins
The Mekong River stretches over 400 km., running through Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam.
Boats frequently have large eyes painted on the bow to ward off evil, although fishing
boats refrain from this practice so as not to scare away their catch.
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We started this morning's adventure in Cai Be where there is a famous floating
market. Unfortunately, the floating market of Cai Be is getting smaller every year as trade is increasingly shifting into modern central markets. To determine what is sold in a particular boat, you look at what is displayed on the
stick raised at the bow.
River boat propellers skim the water, often getting caught in the many water hyacinths
that grow in the river. Unfortunately, few are blooming currently.
For many who live on the river, their boats represent not only their livelihoods, but their homes.
There are a lot of industries along the shore that use rice husks as fuel.
Lumber - soaked for a year, to last over twice as long.
Brick making.
We toured a factory where we learned how to make rice puffs, rice wine, coconut candy, rice paper and a mescal-like alcohol (with a snake in it)!
Homes along the river look a bit precarious.
We went back to the boat for a delicious lunch, including fresh tempura and many cold salads, and to take a break and a very cold shower before venturing out in the afternoon.
We were off to Binh Thanh Island in Sadec this afternoon. It is
10 x 6 km in area, with a population of 3,000. However, if you include those who have
built floating homes around the island, the population grows to 20,000.
Vietnamese people are both resourceful and frugal, so try to use every part of the materials they have available. In the case of water hyacinths, which are grown to attract fish, the stalks are
used for purses, the roots for fertilizer, and the flowers and leaves are consumed. Additionally, these plants prevent erosion.
There are many floating fish farms in this area. It's very convenient to have your small boat, your home and your fish farm all in the same spot.
Harvesting stalks.
Drying stalks for use in making purses.
There are many floating fish farms in this area. It's very convenient to have your small boat, your home and your fish farm all in the same spot.
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The entire fish is made use of: the head and tail for pig food; fish fat for oil; and of
course, the meat for eating. The fish are packed in large sacks to be sent to market.
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On the island they make straw mats for export.
Final Night at Con Dao Resort - A Vietnamese Feast
Mar 28th - The best day yet.
Winds have died down, waves are gone, and the sun is shining!
I managed to get out on a boat today and had a perfect snorkeling experience. The corals here are unique in my experience, very colourful and interesting shapes.
I invited my butler, Hanh who had never been out in a boat to come along and she had a blast. Children here don't generally learn how to swim but Hanh had taught herself. She was very excited to see to fish and coral.
I also invited a young British couple to join us. Here are Claire and James.
We had an amazing beach lunch. It was absolutely outstanding and included everything from wine to watermelon juice. There's nothing like life on a beach.
George prepared our lunch.
We were joined by a small friend.
I've had the most amazing juices here.
Mar 27th- The tide is out!
Another windy day. I don't think I'll get any snorkeling in at this resort. As you can see, the tide is way out this morning.
I went for a beach walk collecting sand dollars as I strolled along. Initially I was very particular about the size, shape, and colour of each specimen I retained.
Then I discovered that 15 sand dollars will get you one free drink. So I began to search harder. I might just get a bit tipsy tonight.
Last night was a barbecue night, which featured lots of great fish and beef.
The barbecues looked like large stainless steel garbage bins.
On another unrelated subject….
I bring to your attention an unexpected great feature of this hotel ...raised toilet handles for flushing. Who knew?
Mar 25 and 26, 2014 - Just hanging out
After my initially busy first couple of days, I've now accomplished nothing for two days. Unfortunately, the weather is still windy so boating activities are out of the question; I'm hoping for Friday. Still I’m having a wonderfully relaxing time and there are lots of nice people and amazing spa treatments. I guess I’ll save my energy for the activities on the river boat next week.
This is what the hotel is like...
The initial view of the hotel was startling as from a distance it looks like a series of concrete structures. Fortunately, that grey haze is actually weathered bamboo, which provides between-room privacy. Some of the bamboo is intricately carved and even the housekeeping carts have a bamboo motif.
The hotel is a series of villas stretched along a beautifully sandy beach. At one end is the bar, restaurants, shop and activity centre. The other end is comprised of the spa and a few private residences.
The villas are all two stories; the bedroom and a decadent bathroom with an outdoor shower takes up one entire level. I ordered a selection of pillows from the “pillow menu”. I’m afraid there would be no room for my husband if he had come along. The water pillow is my current favorite, despite its sloshing.
The 2nd floor has a spacious living area with a kitchen, dining area, writing area and more. I’m not sure what to do in the kitchen given the poor availability of groceries in town.
Each villa has its own bike to ease your transit from one end of the hotel to the other. My riding is improving and fortunately the terrain is flat for the most part!
The hotel’s main dining room has a fantastic breakfast buffet containing everything you could possibly want for breakfast including Vietnamese cuisine. The ambient temperature is so hot here that there is actually a "cold room" that you enter to choose foods such as cheeses, meats, and yogurt. The pho offering is very tasty. It felt like I had breakfast and lunch together.
The bar area has great two-person 'lounges' overflowing with pillows – they’re so comfortable that I have a hard time moving on. The ‘tables’, which are set on the lounges, double as chess boards.
There are lots of chic cocktails on the menu, which I’m working my way through with ease.
For all the hotel’s attributes, I'm undecided about the food. Breakfast is superb, but I find the lunches greasy and heavy with lots of butter (perhaps a French influence?). My chicken wrap was greasy and the grilled veggies laced with whole cloves of garlic. However, the spring rolls are good...so the ‘food jury’ is still out.
I’ve changed rooms so that I’m now in a seaside bungalow. I can exit the bungalow through my own personal walkway to the beach. In this new layout, the bathroom is on the lower level and bedroom on the upper one, so I’m now able to safely sleep with the door open.
The only strange thing about the hotel design is that the stairway between the room levels is an external one. Although the stairway is private, one should really lock the room doors. I find this inconvenient and perhaps some form of gate would solve the problem.
This place is definitely a piece of paradise!
Mar 24, 2014 - A Windy Day Adventure
I awoke to another windy day, so water activities were not in store for me today. Since the Island Tour was fully booked, my ‘guest specialist’ Hanh, whose job is to ensure that my stay here is perfect, suggested that I hire her local taxi driver for my own personal tour. "Uncle" as she calls him arrived on his motor bike (it was not a Harley) and off we went. As my driver did not speak a word of English, we had a hotel phone with us to call Hanh for a translation when Uncle wanted to tell me something. It seems that where there’s a will to communicate, there’s a way.
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| A typical "tiger cage" |
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| Next, Uncle and I toured the local pagoda. |
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| We drove past beautiful lotus "fields". |
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| In the local temple, individuals purchase their own benches. |
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| Because the island is so mountainous, the vistas are great. |
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| Next we visited the fishing harbor where many boats were in port due to the windy weather. |
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| I particularly liked seeing how they filled the boat holds with ice blocks. People were very friendly and everyone liked to practice their single word of English - hello! |
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| Hammocks for resting are located is many convenient spots. |
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| Uncle and I ended our tour with a visit to the local market where vendors were selling tourist souvenirs, vegetables, dried fish and communist propaganda. |
I spent the afternoon floating in my plunge pool and reading while listening to my great sound system and the very Canadian sounds of Michael Buble.
Mar 23, 2014 - If you were wise.....
....you'd jump on a plane and
join me. I'm in the most luxurious suite in the most glorious resort. Here again is the link to the Con Dao resort website. http://www.sixsenses.com/resorts/con-dao/destination.
The only
trouble is the weather isn't cooperating...cloudy skies and a big wind. That hasn't deterred me from sitting out by my plunge pool to write you. I've
had to postpone some of my water activities until later in the week but I'm still
smiling!
March 22, 2014 - Am Safely in Vietnam and the Adventures Have Begun!
Taking a flight that leaves at 1 a.m. was a change for me, but one I didn't mind. In fact, I fell asleep for 7 hours! That's a first for me. The Cathay Pacific first class 'pods' are great - lots of storage, large TV screens, and
easy tray access. My only complaint was that the screen didn't tip, so it was hard to view it from
different angles.
I now find myself in airport lounge killing 4 hours before catching my
flight to Ho Chi Minh City. Luckily, I've been able to shower so now feel human again. Had some fabulous fresh squeezed OJ on the
plane and in the lounge. I've experienced my first travel drama by losing the grommet from the strap for
my purse - I've now got a purse strap tied in a knot. My second problem is that I've realized I'm in a lounge at the farthest end of the terminal from my gate. I guess it's lucky I have 3 hours to get there.
Later today.....
We landed in Ho Chi Minh City around 11 a.m. and I was met by my guide and driver. After discussing potential excursions, we decided to forgo the temples and markets and drive to Cu Chi to
see the underground tunnels that were made famous (or infamous) during the Vietnam War.
My tour started with a brief film describing the Viet Cong heroes who made great sacrifices against the American "despots". All I could think about during the film was where did I pack my Canadian flag? We then saw all the traps used to catch the American soldiers-basically 100 devious ways to use a barbed hook. All very well camouflaged.
The tunnels, which are refered to as the holy revolutionary base of the VC, were built at 3 different levels, with some as deep as 100 feet. The tunnels are narrow ( about 2 feet in diameter) and have been widened to allow tourists to fit into them. They frequently open into different types of rooms. Ventilation stacks were often camouflaged in termite mounds. My son Chris would have loved the firing range where tourists are allowed to fire old machine guns. My guide's father fought on the side of the Americans, but his grandfather was a VC. Apparently, whose side you were on depended heavily on how close to Saigon you were located.
We returned to the hotel by way of a huge market. Finished a sensational spa appointment and am now off to bed bed. I head off for my island adventure at 7am tomorrow. Goodnight!
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